又中又英——A world of difference

  In my previous column I said an ice-cold Martini is my favourite drink and discussed what snacks go well with it. As I said, people who like Martinis usually drink it as an aperitif, an alcohol drink people have before a meal to stimulate the appetite. But I like an ice-cold Martini with my dinner as well, regardless of what many so-called food experts say. Today, I will discuss another cocktail that I like. It's called a Manhattan. It is particularly fitting for me to discuss how to make a classic Manhattan. If something is particularly fitting, it means it is suitable or right.

  It is suitable for me to discuss a classic Manhattan because I now live in Manhattan! Some cocktail historians say the Manhattan was invented around 1880 in New York's Manhattan Club. A Martini and a Manhattan are similar because they both use two basic ingredients. Both use vermouth. But there is a world of difference in the taste and appearance of the two drinks. The expression "a world of difference" means very different. The Martini uses gin and dry vermouth stirred or shaken in ice. A twisted lemon peel or green olive is added. The drink is as clear as water. The Manhattan uses rye whiskey and sweet vermouth with two small drops of Angostura bitters, which is made with herbs and spices.

  The cocktail is stirred in ice. A sweetened red cherry called a Maraschino cherry is added. The cocktail is a mixture of caramel and red in colour because of the whiskey and sweet vermouth. I like to have a Manhattan as an aperitif with snacks such as nuts or potato chips. I prefer not to have it with dinner because it is sweet, unlike the Martini. But some Manhattan drinkers say it pairs well with slightly sweet dishes such as a hamburger with barbecue sauce, a pizza with cooked figs as a topping, and even a medium rare steak. If a drink pairs well with food, it means it matches well.

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  在上一篇文章中我說,冰凍的馬天尼是我最愛的飲品,亦談過甚麼小食跟它最相配。正如我所說的,喜歡喝馬天尼的人通常會把它當aperitif來喝,即是餐前用來刺激食慾的開胃酒。但我也喜歡用冰凍的馬天尼來作為晚餐的伴酒,不管那許多所謂的飲食專家怎麼說。今天,我會談談另一款我喜歡的雞尾酒,它就叫做曼哈頓。由我來談怎樣去調製一杯經典的曼哈頓,實在是particularly fitting——若某事是particularly fitting,意即那是對極了、特別合適。

  由我來談一杯經典的曼哈頓尤其合適,因為我現在就住在曼哈頓!有些研究雞尾酒歷史的學者聲稱,曼哈頓是於一八八○年左右,於紐約的曼哈頓俱樂部中研發出來的。馬天尼跟曼哈頓酒很相似,因為兩者皆用到兩種基本成份,而且兩者皆有用苦艾酒。但兩款飲品的味道和樣子就有天淵之別(a world of difference)。習語 "a world of difference" 意即有很大差別。馬天尼用的是氈酒和乾苦艾酒,在冰塊中攪拌或手搖,另加一片扭檸檬皮又或綠橄欖,這杯酒看上去就像水一樣清澈;曼哈頓則用上裸麥威士忌以及甜苦艾酒,再加兩小滴的安哥斯圖娜苦酒,這種苦酒是用香草和香料製成的。

  這款雞尾酒會加冰塊攪拌,再加進一種名為瑪拉斯奇諾櫻桃的糖漬甜櫻桃。雞尾酒因為威士忌和甜苦艾酒的關係,色澤會是焦糖色和紅色的混合。我喜歡把曼哈頓當成開胃酒(aperitif),邊喝邊吃果仁又或薯片等小食。我就不喜歡在吃晚餐的時候喝,因為它太甜了,不像馬天尼。但也有一些好喝曼哈頓的人說,它跟帶甜的菜式非常配搭(pairs well),例如用上燒烤醬的漢堡包、以烤過的無花果為配料的薄餅,甚至是三成熟的牛扒。若一款飲品pairs well with food,意即它跟食物很相配。

mickchug@gmail.com

中譯:七刻

Michael Chugani 褚簡寧


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